You need a new killer suit? Avoiding these 5 mistakes will help you land the masterpiece

1. Shoulders

The shoulders are the main part of the suit. The way it fits you gives the complete look to the outfit. They should not be too narrow or too large. The jacket shape must adjust exactly to your body. See here:

2. 1st button (or 2nd button on a 3-button suit)

When you close the first button, the jacket should have a slight pull towards the button. It should not contract the complete piece, it should not be too large either. Make sure it gives you enough space to move freely. Take a look at the pull movement on the button:

3. Length

The length of the jacket has to be just right. Too long and you will seem to have short legs, too short and it will look like you are wearing a jacket for kids. The jacket has to cover the crotch/zipper.

4. Sleeves

The sleeves must let the people see around 1 to 1.5 cm (or 0.5 inch) or your shirts’ sleeves. It really gives the impression that your suits have been tailor-made (if not the case). Feel free to ask your tailor to sew it that way if you bought a suit in a store.

5. Pants

Pants need to break a little bit at the bottom of the legs. It should be delicate, we see too many people wearing too-long pants.

How to spot a good suit:

Labels will tell you more about the clothes. Do not always trust the brands. Especially in the lower and middle prices range. Some of the labels on the outside are indicating Italy or any other country famous for manufacturing suits while the suits are made in China or elsewhere.
Check the inside labels, they will give you good hints on the quality of the suit: where it is made, from what it is made. Avoid all the synthetic materials and look for cotton or wool.

Rounded end sleeves: If you have rounded end sleeves it has been probably made on purpose and your suit is probably of good quality. If the jacket is finishing in a right angle on the sleeves next to the buttons it could be a sign the suits were sewed with a machine.

Button holes: check the button holes, if they are sewed first and then cut in the middle then it is not a good suit to go for. Good suits have their fabric cut and then the tailor is sewing the hole. You will spot irregularities if it has been made by hand.

Reserve of fabric: good suits have a good amount of fabric inside to let your tailor re-adjust the suit (jacket and pants). A good amount is around 2 cm (0.8 inches) on each side of the sewing. Low-quality suits have less or no fabrics inside to save a maximum of money to the manufacturer.

Horn or corozo buttons: good suits use good buttons. They are never made of plastic such like “off the rack” suits.

Glued suits vs canvas: the part on your chest beneath the fabric can be glued as a whole part (cheap suit) with heavy synthetic textile while classy suits are made with good materials and are sewed instead of glued. You can spot it by checking if your chest parts are moving as a whole (glued) or if despite your moves your jacket’s movements are fluid.

Patterns: good suits have better shapes and better fitting. It looks more “tailor-made” even though it was not (if you choose high range suits not tailored).

Pic: Hardini

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